Palenque & Mayan Ruins

Last week
We hopped a plane in Mexico City
For Villahermosa and Palenque

PALENQUE - MAYAN RUINS

Villahermosa is about 1.5 hours
From the jungle and Mayan ruins.
We landed, and took a taxi
As it was getting late in the day. 

We were immediately hit with
Moist jungle climate, our bodies sweating
From the moment we got off the plane.
The ride was smooth and uneventful
Arriving in Palenque town about 6pm.

From there, it was a 7km ride out to el Panchan,
A jungle village of cabanas which range in style
To concrete houses painted bright green
To screened in rooms with bunks
Or hammock campgrounds.

We stayed at Margarita and Ed’s Cabanas,

In the downstairs back side of the main house
We had a room with double bed and pink walls
Jungle ferns and red blooming flowers outside our window
The grounds were meticulously landscaped and clean

Inside the door, there is a sign
Which says don’t flush the paper in the toilets.

After settling in we wandered over to Don Muchos
A big restaurant underneath a large palapa roof.

The restaurant was filled with Europeans
Mostly German and French, with a big mix
Of  young people with dreadlocks and tattoos
Who were either passing through
Or living there permanently.

I ate the enchiladas with red sauce
Which was more like spagetti sauce
The tortillas folded in half over chicken
Rather tasteless to tell the truth.
After eating, we passed by the jewelry tables
And went to bed.

We arose early to eat and be off to the ruins
We sat down to eat at an outdoor food stall,
Named something that had to do with Monkeys
But weren’t served after 10 minutes
So we went off to Don Muchos again
For a rather uninspiring breakfast
Which was neither Mexican, Italian or American
And decided no more tasteless meals there.

We decided to walk into the ruins
Which are about a km walk
From the entrance to el Panchan
We bought our park entrance bracelet
For 20 pesos, and were on our way.

There’s a concrete winding path
With fallen coconut hulls everywhere
Everything seemed to be in bloom

Along the way
Are various jungle accomodations
Cabins, hammocks, campgrounds and hotels
Locals have homes within the park
And an elementary school
Resides in the middle of a field,

Schoolhouse in the jungle

Children working and playing
Around a roof with two walls.

At the first entrance to the ruins
Is a large, modern museum.
Combi vans honk along the way
To see if you want a ride in
We bought our tickets
Walked in the first entrance
Which is a km long set of stairs
Set into the steep hillside

A gorgeous walk which meets up
With minor ruins along the way.

The main ruins site
Is set in a large, open grassy area
Which houses many large pyramids
Various minor excavations
Few of which are marked
To tell you what they were
You had to go out to the main gate
To read the sign board map for that,
Rather a flaw, we thought,
As we had no idea what we were seeing
Which didn’t matter really, as it was all
Ancient and beautiful and serene.

Here’s a slideshow of the ruins, palenque & El Panchan

CLICK ON PHOTO to view the slideshow

 

 

We exited through the upper entrance
Passing colorful booths with local crafts,
Food booths, and the usual artistans.

Artist Studio Specials

This week we made a visit
To the painting taller of Aron and Oscar.
They paint our custom retablos
As well as colonial style and kitschy
Pieces on wood, tin and old windows and doors.

Below, are a few of the pieces
That they have asked us to sell for them.
They will be sold at a special artist studio price
And as you order them, they will ship 
From here in Mexico, allow 2-3 weeks
For delivery.  
You’ll find these in our ‘New Arrivals‘
On our website – Dos Mujeres Mexican Folk Art 

These unique wood crosses 
Are atop wood stands which are
Made from old wood beams
Some have glass in front of saints images
Others, allegorical crosses atop retablo paintings
These are some of the more unique crosses
We have come across in a long time
And hope you enjoy them!

           

  

  

  

Along with these unique pieces
Are new talavera from the artist studi0 In Guanajuato. This talavera catrina plate will be sold from the artist studio only & will ship up to the states when your order is placed and then out to you.

 

Talavera Catrina Plate

Where All Those Cantera Stone Carvings Come From

Many of the carved Cantera stone figures
Architectural details, columns and canales,
Saints, angels and fountains
Come from a small town
In the Queretaro mountains
Adjacent and a few kilometers away
From the town of Pedro Escobedo,
In a town named Escolasticas.

John had gone there with his boys
Two Christmases ago and wanted to go back.
We hopped in the car with Richard & Chris,
And were off to see if we could find
This remote town on our own.

Escolastica lies in the hills,
About an hour outside of Queretaro.
The highways are good and it’s easy going
Until you get to Pedro Escobedo
Where you know you have to turn.

The highway makes a detour
To main street, where you can buy
Tacos, chicken, baskets, groceries
Visit with your neighbors, buy eggs,
Get your car washed or find a taxi.
But there isn’t one sign for the road to Escolastica

About four blocks down,
I unroll my window
Ask a man on the street
If he knows the road to Escolastica.
‘Hijole’ he says (like oh God!)
He motions around in a circle
Tells us to go left, then left, then straight
And keep going.
Which of course leads us exactly back
To where we were.

We go left, where there is a line up of taxis
We ask the lead driver if he knows the route.
He tells us to go left, then left and straight
Todo direcho – keep going straight
And you’ll get there.

It looks like a dead end to nowhere
So we head back up the highway road
Thinking once we get out of town
There will be a sign.
As we leave town, we realize the map says
That the road is not outside of town
But somewhere in the middle.
We turn around again and John
Stops a gas truck to ask a third time.
The driver tells us, “go past the light, three streets
Turn left and keep going.
You’ll see signs for la Lira
Then Escolastica.”

This works, but it doesn’t look right
A cobblestone road, barely rideable
Past old buildings that look like
Abandoned stone jails.
But soon there is a sign for la Lira,
A town, and down a little street
That doesn’t seem like it can go anywhere
Then across the ‘highway’
Really, a small two lane paved road
Which leads us 7 km more into Escolastica.
You know you are there
When you start seeing things like the carvings below
And when a car goes by, or the wind blows
It picks up all the stone dust and blows it around
Drying out your face and throat.

As we arrive, there is a long stretch of nothing but carvings
Then a long stretch of town, which is surprisingly large
Followed by a stretch of countryside
With a few studios, carvings behind wire fences,
Then a long stretch of big workshops
Where they cut the large pieces
With saws that have teeth that are an inch and a half long
Whose cuttings, mixed with water hit the wall beyond
Making an image the shape of the Virgin of Guadalupe

There are carvings of every imaginable shape and style,
Angels, virgins, saints, monsters, soldiers and mermaids

And architectural features and forms
Canales that look like animals, along with simple plain ones
You can imagine water flowing from their mouths

Sitting atop blocks and cylinders of stone,
with carved pillars at top

Men fighting beasts
Where would one put something like this?

Angels of all kinds

In the midst of what appears to be a dirty, dusty, unkempt, disorderly
Group of workshops, you’ll find inside
A very neatly arranged tool bench

A workspace worthy of the piece they are working on,
A large round rose that will go in the top of a church

Next to the calendar girl that normally adorns the workshop wall
But there are no walls in these workshops
So she is bound to the telephone pole

Roman, Christian soldiers on chariots
Are surrounded by birds and fountains
And we all started singing ‘Onward Christian Soldiers’

A rustic hacienda style,
Low palapa roof home
Sits at the back of one workshop
Guarded by a life size lion
Shaded by a large tree
In a garden of cactus.

Click on the photo below
to view the slideshow

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© All rights reserved, 2009, Dos Mujeres Mexican Folk Art

Festival of San Miguel

Festivals and rituals
Are taken VERY seriously,
Historic and religious beliefs
Are acted out in public passion plays,
The many faces and times of Mexico
Are featured in this festival
The Aztec dancers, local Indios,
Homage to San Miguel Arcangel
In the form of floats with young girls
Acting out San Miguel slaying the devil,
Baby angels all around.

The battle of the France against Mexico
Fought in the streets
The youngest to the oldest participate
And a trance is created
With three days of drumming, pounding
Dancing Singing, rockets and fireworks.
Pilgrims come by the thousands
On foot, horseback, and carried by others
To watch, participate, pray, sing,
And just have a good old time.

Here is a slide show of John’s 25 favorite photos:

Click on photo above to start the slide show

Saturday -

1PM – Chinelos in the San Juan de Dios Market
On our way into town
We ducked into the outer entrance
To the San Juan de Dios Market
We could hear a banda
Bandas are whole stories unto themselves
Groups of locals who play traditional,
Fun, lively, out of tune, almost Cacaphonic music.

Then the colorful costumes
Made of velvet, sequins and embroidery
Hats made of upside down lampshades,
Velvet with swinging strands of colorful beads
Men wrapping their heads in scarves
Dancing and jumping around
Where the tortilla ladies usually sit.

Chinelos Video

From the market we wandered up the streets
Which were uncharacteristically quiet
Just a few men on horseback,
A few parade people, carrying costumes
And the transito police talking to each other

1:30pm – a pilgrimage
From the ranchos outside of San Miguel
They wander in on the Salida de Queretaro
They have walked six hours
120 on horseback
1000 by foot
Waving flags and carrying altars
Singing traditional chants,
wrapped in shawls, wearing baseball hats,
carrying children.

2pm – the blowing up of the Monitos
The horses make a procession out of the Jardin
Followed by chanting pilgrims.
A pickup truck drives in, filled
With paper mache dolls, called monitos,
Or little monkeys.
They stand on a round frame
Built from bamboo.
They are decorated with……….. more to come…

The Voladores (for now, see our previous post from last year’s festival)

The Parades -Below – The slideshow of parade photos
click on the photo to begin

Slideshow of Parade Photos

The Dancers

Surprises

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© All rights reserved, 2008, Dos Mujeres Mexican Folk Art

Only in Mexico

7/26/08
As we wander around the streets here
Every day is an adventure of sorts
Today, I was on a local bus
Heading home from the farm
Where I have just purchased
The week’s vegetables

I arrange myself on the seat,
With my three large bags of food
A local man wearing jeans
White shirt, vest and a cowboy hat
Carrying an ornately made,
Well worn twelve string guitar
Entered the bus, stood at the front
And began singing.

Rustling around in my bag
I find my camera
And take a little video of the event:

Musician On A Mexico Bus Ride

The locals stare straight ahead
Don’t look at him when he asks for money afterward
But I am happy to pay because I am always amazed
At the lack of self consciousness that eople have here
When it comes to playing music in public.
Plus it was really nice.

You don’t need to have a gig,
You just go out on the bus
Or walk the streets and ask people if they would like a song
Then sing like there’s no tomorrow,
Or no rest of today for that matter.
You don’t even have to be good, you just do it
For that, I am appreciative every day I live here
And see things like this.

Besides all the auditory noise here
There are visual delights and wonders as well
Such as this delightful house, which I discovered
Several weeks ago while walking to town.

The colors are just fantastic,
A rich blue wall
Bright yellow door, trimmed in red
Red iron work around the meter box

A Virgin of Guadalupe tile mural
Is punctuated with muliticolored glass beads
Making a frame around her
Then colored plastic papel picado,
Cut paper party decorations
Strung across the front of the house.

Notice that the door is not to the ground
But dropped right into the wall

The walkway in front of the house…
Was artfully redone this week

A simple round doorstep
Made with a collection of talavera tiles
And a winding trail of tiles on either side
Going up and down the sidewalk
With little trees, made out of flowering tiles
Beneath the oval arches above them.

Further down the street
Inside a tin work studio
A rusted iguana
is hanging out in the window

And another outrageously painted wall
In bright turquoise blue
With rosa Mexicana pink in the brick inlay
Flowering trees and shrubs hanging off it
And hand written sign on the door

Everyone is out on the streets here

While waiting for the bus
On a very busy street
On the median strip
Sits a man with no legs
On a four wheel cart
Covered in a yellow and white shade cloth
Selling almonds for 10 pesos a bag
Cars are whizzing by
He is unfazed
Here’s a little 3 second video
For the full effect

You see everyone out on the streets here
Mothers with young babies wrapped in rebozos, held close
The old, the infirm, the disabled, children selling ‘chicle’
Mariachis, singers, and young people arm in arm
No one is hiding away
Everyone has something to offer
It is gritty and real and affirming at the same time

August 1, 2008
While making lunch, we heard a truck go by
With a loudspeaker strapped to the top
It’s hard to understand what these people were saying
A bunch of garbly sounds that don’t make any sense
Even to the locals, then something like
melones, sandia, quince a vente pesos

A truck full of cantaloupe and watermelons
Is cruising the streets looking for buyers.
Anna and I run out the front door and down the street
Thinking of agua de sandia for lunch
But mostly wanting to see what the truck is like
How full of melons and enjoying the fact
That you can get watermelons
Brought to your door
Like the old milk trucks that delivered milk
In the 1950’s. The practice
Is alive and well here in Mexico.

By the time we made it downstairs and outside
The truck had gone around the corner
Missing our loud whistles calling them back.
They disappeared – all but the music and chants -
“Melones”
“Sandia”
“Quince a vente pesos”
We went back in hoping they would come down our street
Which they soon did, and we ran downstairs again
Met our neighbors in the street
To sample the goods
And buy a cantaloupe and a watermelon
15 pesos for both.
You can’t beat that.

Here’s a little video – Click on the photo below
Complete with neighbors,
Music from the truck
And a window into a day in the life
Of a melon seller

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© All rights reserved, 2008, Dos Mujeres Mexican Folk Art

Atotonilco – New World Heritage Site

Last Sunday we thought it was the weekend for the Feria de Atotonilco, and decided to go. Our neighbors Marta, Aron and their son Ariel went with us. Upon arrival, we discovered that the fair was not this weekend, but next – however, it was the weekly market day, and the arrival of a large group of pilgrims who are here to pray, do pennance and repent for the week.

Photo above: Aron (in black) Marta and Ariel

We entered town from the El Cotijo side, near the entrance to La Gruta hot springs along the back side of the town. There were many cars parked along the stone fence going into town. We walked along into town. Booths began appearing, covered in colorful plastic ‘lona’ tarps – the Sunday market day.

Atotonilco is known for it’s beautiful frescoes in the church, and this last week, along with San Miguel de Allende, Atotonilco was awarded the honor of becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a great honor which will give international heritage status as well as much needed funding for restoration. Use this link to go to our tales from the road blog to see photos of the town, church and frescos.

The ceiling, walls and doors of this church are adorned with beautiful old paintings depicting religious and Hispanic scenes. The church also attracts about two million pilgrims a year, who we were told come weekly by bus, foot or car to be locked indoors for a week to pray, flagellate themselves (really) and do penance for their sins here on earth.

Atotonilco is locally famous for it’s statue of Senor de las Columnas, depicted below as Christ leaning over an urn, with disciplinas (for flagellating) wrapped around his waist and neck, bloody and tired with three gold rays, his halo.

The statue of ‘el senor’ makes the annual pilgrimage of about 10 km to San Miguel de Allende, overnight, every Easter for the Semana Santa Processions, arriving two weeks before the event and enters the town on a mile long flower filled street. To see photos of this, follow this link

Outside in the market, you’ll find religious paraphernalia – disciplinas, large, small and in key chains, hand made by local artisans, and worn by all the pilgrims -

Along with Cd’s that have images under resin of the Virgin of Guadalupe, Sagrado Corazon de Jesus, San Judas Tadeo to name a few – plus rosaries, gilded plastic frames with images of santos, religious cards —

Crowns of thorns made of wood and thorny spines from the bisnaga cactus – and hand made veils made of net and flowers which the women pilgrims, young and old wear during the week of prayer. Everything you need for the passion play.

And you can also buy an array of items for daily use -    

dishes, plastic goods, food, plants or a beautiful sequined purse like John is showing here.

 

 

 

 

The food booths are selling botanas - Enchiladas, tortillas half dipped in chili salsa, fried rolled and filled with chicken and fresh cheese – gorditas, big fat tortillas rolled into a ball, cheese and chili inside, patted into a disc that is fried, then cut open and filled with meat, potatoes and corn – tacos with meat or nopales and cheese and carmelized onions. Down the way you can buy a nieve – iced milk or fruit in a variety of flavors, mango, chocolate or vanilla, zapote, limon, fresa or sandia.

Musicians wander in groups, find an area to stand or sit and play typical Mexican music with guitars and accordians.

Most of the crowd are pilgrims from ranchos and villages all over Mexico who still wear traditional clothing –

Women in colorful satin dresses, some wearing capes with crosses sewn on them and many wearing a mixture of traditional and modern clothing and hats – all of them wearing disciplinas, ready for their week of prayer and pennance.
I have to say, that coming into town, was like going back in time to another world of people, still steeped in traditional values, clothing and reverence for god. We were unaware upon arrival, that Atotonilco, while being famous for it’s beautiful church, is also a pilgrimage site for two million pilgrims per year, many of whom come from villages that still maintain traditional ways of living, and who you see here.

At 5PM the pilgrims will go to the back of the church where the doors will be shut to the outside world for a week. They will be fed and basic needs taken care of while they reflect.

The windows and doors of the church are all open today, shedding light throughout. Groups take turns kneeling at the altar to cross themselves and pray. Women are crying as they pray. Tourists wander about with cameras taking pictures of the frescoes, statues and architecture. The wood floors are mosaic designs, and the wood entrance to the doorway worn down from years of footsteps passing through.

There are retablos of the stations of the cross and other religious stories painted into the doors and walls of the church and vestibules contain Santos to pray to. We were told that because of the new UNESCO World Heritage status that the market booths which surround the church in the center of town, and which have probably been a tradition for as long as the church has been standing, will no longer be allowed in front of the site after this year. The fair, which is a local event, will most likely be flooded with tourists. The status comes as a mixed blessing, bringing restoration, money and tourism to the town, but will surely change it’s nature in the coming years.

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Photo below: Ariel & me
    

© All rights reserved, 2008, Dos Mujeres Mexican Folk Art

 

Walking the Camino de Santiago, Spain 2008

Not exactly one of our usual stories about Mexican Folk Art
but another type of quest and a really long walk!
Our 500 mile pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago
Click this link to go to the entire blog of our walk. 

Follows the ancient pilgrimage route starting in the Pyrennes in France,

and ending at the other end of Spain in Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain.

It passes through many of the oldest villages and cities in Europe

and gorgeous countryside. We’ve included a few photos from our last walk

in September 2003 in this tales from the road.

If you would like to view our blog, please email us for the link.

The blog also has the emails we sent home on our last visit,

which will give you an idea of the complexity and wonder of a long walk like this.

Below are photos from our first trip and there are many more on our blog site.

© All rights reserved, 2007, Dos Mujeres Mexican Folk Art

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Semana Santa – Sevilla Spain

I thought I would share this Spanish site which has beautiful videos of the Semana Santa Processions this year in Spain.

Click Here to View Videos

There is a collection of videos to view on this site,
and of which are reminders of where all Mexican Catholic
religious ceremonies began, and how faithful to the old traditions
the Mexican ceremonies and passionplays have remained.

You can also browse around the site which has many photographs and stories.

For those of you who do not speak Spanish, you can translate
the working by copying and paste into translate.google.com for a bad but passable translation!

© All rights reserved, 2007, Dos Mujeres Mexican Folk Art

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San Miguel Viejo

This week we rented bicycles, after being told by a friend that there are trails out of San Miguel into the countryside, around the lake, to the hot springs and around the campo.

Click on the last photo to view all the photos of our ride into the countryside and the original chapel of San Miguel de Allende

For those of you who have never been to San Miguel de Allende, it is a hilly (often steep) town with rock cobblestones on most streets. Neither of us had ridden a bicycle in a few years and the rental company was at the top of town so our first 10 minutes of riding was on bumpy rocks (more commonly and thought of as ‘charming’ cobblestones). Straight downhill.

We were weaving back and forth, like little children new to bicycles, and had to wind our way down Canal street, past the bus station on the way out of town, down to the train station and off into the countryside.

Once outside of town we were on more bumpy roads going past very small enclaves of houses, and eventually into San Miguel Viejo where San Miguel was founded by Fray Juan de San Miguel in 1542, a part of the Antiguo Camino Real, the silver route from Zacatecas.

Once inside San Miguel Viejo, we had to keep asking directions to the original church (chapel) of San Miguel, and discovered this little gem of a church near the lake. Although the doors were locked, we were able to photograph the nativity behind the altar

through the keyhole, as you will see lin the photos in the slideshow.

Click on the photo below to go to the full slideshow

© All rights reserved, 2007, Dos Mujeres Mexican Folk Art

 

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Neighborhood Posadas 2007

Two nights ago the posadas began in our neighborhood – the first one being at Marta & Aron’s, our next door neighbor’s house. Posadas are 9 nights of pilgrimages of Mary & Josph praying for room at the inn. There are prayers, songs and pleas.

The litter carrying statues of Mary, Jospeh and an angel are brought in to the house,
and left there until the next night where the rosary is held again and the statues move on to the next home.

Petra & Anai Singing back and forth to the crowd of people outside who are asking to come in

After you are finally let in to a home, there is Ponche, a very sweet fruit drink that has tecojote, guayaba, tangerines, oranges, sugar cane, canela spices and more fruit, then little bags of goodies for the children and mothers, and finally the piñatas.

The second night, last night, started at Marta & Aron’s where the statues were left the night before to be picked up for the next rosary and posada.

Today’s rosary for the posada was at Marta & Aron’s house next door – we all recited prayers – (about 100 Hail Mary’s and our Fathers – ( the ‘misterios’ as our neighbor Petra calls them) Reciting the rosary in Marta & Aron’s house.

young girls with candles …

Tonight, it felt more regular and not so mysterious. Kids, in anticipation of the piñatas, started showing up without their parents about a half hour before the adults.

The crowd of people grows each night, as the children find out where the posadas are. Young mothers, middle age women, grandmothers, children and babies make up the group. The men were noticeably absent. Everyone arrives singing.

This time, I had printed the main prayers in Spanish out so I could pray also. What a joke! It took 5 Hail Mary’s to realize that Beto (Petra’s grandson, and one of the few ‘older males’) would read the first half of the prayer, then the people would recite the second half of the prayer. They speak so fast I was half done when they were on the the next round.

For the second set of Hail Marys I was ready, but it didn’t sound right and I was reading the wrong thing. It turns out that for one set, Beto reads the first half then we read the second half. The second round, we read the first half, and he reads the second half of the prayer. After about 30 of these I had it down and only had to practice speaking it in triple time or leaving out words.

There were about 45 people this time and just like any unorganized local event, people were knowing what was to happen but not quite knowing what to do – who carries the statues, who follows first and the 8-12 year old boys were lighting all the candles and sparklers before they were supposed to and pushing each other around while their mothers swatted at them because it wasn’t time for that yet for that.

(photo below from 2006 posada)

Beto was giving orders to whoever would listen and an elderly woman and her granddaughter finally made it on to the street with the saints. They couldn’t decide which way to go on the street – so they turned around in circles with the whole crowd following them back and forth in circles until someone started laughing, and they decided to go all the way around instead of up and across.

Lety and her twins Miguel & Angel led the singing and Petra finally grabbed little Duncan’s hand because he was running all over the place, and Anel, his mother, is so pregnant and tired by this time that she couldn’t keep up with him – people were spilling hot ponche on themselves and people next to them.

The little boys finally were given the go ahead to light everyone’s candles & were begging people for their sparklers so they could hang behind and play with the fire. We finally made it to the house up on the upper right corner of Calle Paraiso and everyone sang to be let in – they sang over and over until the owners of the house finally opened the door to us singing the glory be and thanks song.

This time there was more hot ponche and bags of goodies, but no piñata. The crowd was bigger than the first night. I am told it will be 100 people (maybe more) by the time it is at our house this coming Sunday!

On the way back I asked Marta if it was normal to have no piñata and she said that it totally depends on the house. If there isn’t a lot of money they will give the goodie bags first, then ponche to drink, then piñatas. No one seemed disappointed.

Each night one or two of the grandmothers introduced themselves to me, curious about the gringa in the crowd and Marta or Petra would explain that I am their neighbor and live here. I plan to go again tonight, to experience the fullness of the whole experience and to meet more of my neighbors, young and old

As they hit the piñata, there are songs that everyone sings which tease the hitter and put a limit to the time each child gets with the stick.

The songs, in English & Spanish are below
A free for all as the piñata falls & Beto (tall young man) helps the younger kids get goodies

The piñata songs:
Spanish
Dale, dale, dale.
No pierdas el tino.
Porque si lo pierdes.
Pierdes el camino.
Ya le diste una.
Ya le diste dos.
Ya le diste tres.
Y tu tiempo se acabó.

English:
Hit it, hit it, hit it.
Don’t loose your aim.
Because if you loose it.
You loose the way.
You hit it once.
You hit it twice.
You hit it three times.
And your time is up.
© All rights reserved, 2007, Dos Mujeres Mexican Folk Art